John Redfern
English couturier, inventor of sportswear and often considered, as a contemporary of Charles Worth, the “Father of Haute Couture.”
The Redfern & Sons house, founded in England by John Redfern in 1847 on the Isle of Wight, a mecca for yachting, was initially a draper and tailor.
He was known for his clothing that was intended for the practice of sport. In 1885, he invented the jacket and matching skirt set: the "tailored suit,” for which he is credited today.
This tailored suit, later made iconic by Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, caught the attention of the Princess of Wales who ordered it, as well as “travel clothing” to wear in daily life.
The house, which in 1879 designed clothing for actress Lillie Langtry, dominated the sportswear fashion market and diversified its activity to include the creation of evening dresses, entering and, some would say, even establishing, the world of haute couture.
In 1888, Redfern was named "Dressmaker By Royal Appointment" to Queen Victoria and the Princess of Wales, who the house had been dressing for twenty years. Redfern also included the Empress of Russia among its clientele.
The company developed and expanded into several cities: London (1878), Paris (1881) on the rue de Rivoli: Monte-Carlo, Nice and New York (1884) on Fifth Avenue.
The house which was now designing the full range of women's clothing, participated in the Universal Exhibition in 1900 and became a member of the Syndicat Chambre de la Couture Parisienne: Redfern was on an equal footing with the greatest couturiers of the day.
In its Paris studio, which crystallized its success, Redfern dressed actresses of the theater, such as Sarah Bernhardt, who commissioned her stage dresses and theatre costumes from Redfern.
Redfern had established the balance between Parisian chic and understated English distinction.
The house of Redfern appeared regularly in the luxurious Gazette du Bon Ton which circulated in the milieu that included many Parisian fashion designers.
At that time, the ideal wardrobe for an elegant woman was obliged to include Redfern’s designer day suits and evening wear by Charles Frederick Worth, another Englishman residing in Paris.
In 1916, Redfern created the first female uniforms for the Red Cross and in the 1920s, the house launched its perfumes, including Hindu Evening and Ocean of Love.
The House of Redfern relocated its studio/boutique to 8 rue Royale and also to 32 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré where, under the Redfern Sports brand, sold a more affordable product line.
Redfern closed its doors in the 1930s and today, his creations can be seen in major museums such as the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Palais Galliera, or the Kyoto Costume Institute.
