Jean Dessès
the couturier of the Royal European Court AS WELL AS the American red carpet.
Although intended for a diplomatic career, Jean Dessès, born to Greek parents, opened his fashion house in Paris in 1937. His style was characterized by complex and asymmetrical cuts and structures. An undisputed master of drapery and pleating, he was also a talented colorist.
He surrounded himself with talent: Guy Laroche became his modeller and he trained Valentino in the profession of stylist. He created dresses for Maria Callas, Rita Hayworth, Michèle Morgan, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Kent. Simone Signoret received the Oscar for best actress in one of his designs in 1960.
He was avant-garde and as early as 1950, he created ready-to-wear collections in the United States, then in France. He also created exclusive collections for Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.
He innovated and diversified his product line: his fragrances ("Celui", "Kalispera" or "Gymkana") were launched from 1959 and were mixed by Paul Vacher, who would later co-create "Arpège" for Lanvin and "Miss Dior" for Christian Dior.
He was one of the first designers to open a boutique in a department store (Galeries Lafayette) and the great photographers of the time, such as Richard Avedon, Henry Clarke and Norman Parkinson, immortalized his creations for Vogue and Officiel.
With the advent of vintage fashion, the evening dresses of the so-called "last designer of the red carpet" are now worn by celebrities like Renée Zellweger and Jennifer Lopez at the Oscars. Kate Moss, Kristin Davis and others have walked the red carpet in his designs.
Recognized as one of the major figures in the golden age of Haute Couture, Dessès now inspires many contemporary designers.
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